Kaunsa World Cup (what World Cup)?
Not exactly the words you want to hear from your cabbie on landing in Bhubaneswar, which hosts all three of India's Group A games at the 2022 FIFA U-17 Women's World Cup.
Doubly so when there's a giant banner showcasing the event right in front of him, which brings his eyesight, and driving skills, into question. Twenty disconcerting minutes later, the trip's over, and my cabbie is interested in watching Brazil, but there's no other sign of a World Cup taking place.
Perhaps it's the route into the city, but life is very much progressing without a second thought to the football about to take place at the Kalinga Stadium. The overcast weather simply adds to the notion that the city is grabbing a hot cuppa indoors, rather than gearing up for a showpiece event.
Thankfully, the next soul to ferry me around is aware and plans to attend the 'Girls World Cup', as he affectionately dubs it. He's doubly impressed when my final stop is the swank hotel where Team India is staying. "Kya luxury hai (what luxury)".
Again, and perhaps this is for security reasons, there's little to indicate Team India is around, although the team's social post had made it clear where they were staying.
A bit of bureaucratic red tape later, my work at the hotel is done and I head off to accost the next unsuspecting person to see if they're aware of the event taking place in their city.
It's a shopkeeper selling umbrellas (I wasn't kidding about it being overcast), and while he does reply nervously in the affirmative, I suspect this is just to close the sale. He needn't have worried, the grey skies look very threatening.
Bhubhaneswar's Police Battalion Grounds is next on my radar and there's some inkling of an event about to take place, with the flyovers getting a fresh new coat of paint. Something explicit, however, still eludes me.
And then, hope. #KickOffTheDream screams the board on either side of this gate... but is it just because Morocco, USA and India are about to train here? Probably. Either way, I'm where I need to be. Almost. The volunteers guide me to the right place after I nonchalantly walk into a super-secure area restricted only for the teams.
Eventually, the skies open up and the Indian team takes to the field, despite the rain. Thomas Dennerby runs his sessions with remarkable clarity - there's pin-drop silence from his charges when he's speaking, explaining what he wants...and off they go.
It's a very specific passing drill - one designed for the transition, where holding midfielders, centre-backs and fullbacks play one-touch football with an aim to create an overload on the wings. The team seems to be executing it well enough, but Dennerby wants more. 'Support runs' he yells - with an instant response. You can tell they've been at it since February.
Whether it'll be enough for the might of USA or Brazil, only time will tell. Either, way the World Cup is very much present in the Battalion grounds, if not the rest of the city.
"Mujhe hockey, football nahi pasand hai... sirf cricket (I don't like hockey or football, just cricket" - My next auto-rickshaw driver isn't mincing his words. Despite my attempt at invoking Brazil, he's firm - he's not interested in this World Cup. The road we're on, however, very much is. Bordering the Kalinga stadium, the World Cup is now inescapable, with posters on every street lamp. Just how effective it is - I mean the stadium is *right there* - I have not a clue.
The ticketing office bears a remarkably deserted look. It's next to a temple and one feels only god can help this World Cup now. Then a couple of fans let me know India's game against USA is sold out.
Wait, what?
Sold out. Apparently, there is a god. He/She/They likes football.
Seats for India's other two games against Morocco and Brazil are also filling up fast. Still disbelieving, a quick check online helps confirms it. The fans pick the remarkably well-priced tickets (Rs 90 and 180) for both days and leave, relatively happy.
An entire day of being witness to a city appearing to barely care about the World Cup... and then Bhubhaneswar deceptively steps up to offer up a full house of support for India's girls. Almost as if they heard Dennerby yell 'support runs' earlier.
Maybe that's Dennerby's plan for knockout qualification too - deceptively step up when no one expects it? With a loud crowd roaring them on, India could surprise many with a competent performance.
Kaunsa World Cup? We'll find out soon enough.